Wearing apparel



Feb. 23 1926.

' J. SIEGEL WEARING APPAREL Filed August 26, 1925 3 Sheets'Sheet 1 Feb. 23 1926. 1,574,127

- J. SIEGEL WEARING APPAREL FiledAugust 26, 1925 3 Sheets-Sheet FICT'. J

auvemtoz Patented Feb. 23, 1926.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

JACOB SIEGEL, OF PHILADELPHIA, PENNSYLVANIA.

. WEARING APPAREL.

Application filed August 26, 1925. Serial No. 52,519.

To all whom it may concern: Be it known that I, J ACQB SIEeEn, a citizen of the United States, and a resident of the city and county of Philadelphia, State of Pennsylvania, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Vearing Apparel, of which the following is a specifica tion, reference being had 'to the accompanying drawing.

My invention relates particularly to the means employed for attaching the facing of a coat to the coat body, and is especially directed to the means of attachment at the region of the pocket. I

In the manufacture of coats in general, but having reference in particular to that class of coats commonly known as overcoats or top coats, it has been common practice to attach the flap comprising the bellows facing to the material forming the coat body at the region of intersection of the inner edge of the facing and the lower edge of the lining, by hand felling and tacking, the

- latter being required to pass through several thicknesses of material, which produces a thick impression on the outside of the coat body, and so tends to cause such breakage as to destroy the continuity of the material forming the coat body and thereby produce an unsightly crease or wrinkle.

The principal objects of my invention are to provide means for attaching the coat facing to the coat body that will not only avoid the thick impression and consequent crease or wrinkle but will eliminate the necessity of hand felling or tacking.

Other objects of my invention are to pro-.

vide in a coat a load carrying structure which, in efiect, tends to serve as a strut or truss, tending to so equalize the stresses incident to the pockets being supported by the depending skirt of the coat structure as to prevent any tendency to draw or drag the material forming the coat body.

Further objects of my invention are to provide a coat facing with means for attaching it to a coat body, which is so formed .in a substantially right-angled formation and in the angle of which is attached to the facing lining aright-angled triangular gusset forming in effect an angleplate serving as a truss or brace arranged to compensate for the come and go movements of the skirt of the coat body.

My invention further includes a triangular gusset so folded as to embrace a .reinforcement arranged to stiffen it and thereby increase its effective bracing tendencies.

My invention also includes all of the va rious novel features of construction and arrangement as hereinafter more definitely specified. 1

In the accompanying drawings Fig. 1 is a fragmentary inside elevational View of a coat having an inside pocket and conveniently embodying, my invention; Fig. 2 is an elevational view, of the facing, lining and pocket backing assembly as it appears before being attached-to the coat body as shown in Fig.

1, and showing the reverse face from that shown in said figure; Fig. 3 is a fragmentary inside elevational view of a coat having an outside patch pocket and conveniently embodying my invention; Fig. 4 is an elevational view of the facing and lining assembly as it appears before being attached to the coat body shown in Fig. 3; Fig. 5 is a fragmentary perspective sectional view of the region of the coat including the reinforcement; Fig. 6 is an enlarged transverse sectional view taken v horizontally through the coat body, its facing and facing attachment on line 66 in Fig. 1; Fig. 7 is a face View of the facing attachment of gusset extended in plane; Fig. 8 is a perspective view of 'said gusset folded-on the diagonal into triangular form; Fig. 9 is a' perspective view of the gusset folded as shown in Fig.

and arranged as to be capable of attachment by a single and continuous machine stitch ing operation.

Specifically stated, the form of my invention hereinafter described comprehends a coat having a facing and attached lining terminating in the region of the coat pocket and having means aflording an attachment for the coat body and its facing and lining 8 but showing a reinforcing web interposed betweenthe wings of said gusset; and Fig. 10 is a face view of the reinforcing web per se which is shown in Fig. 9.

In said figures the coat structure as shown in Figs. 1 and 2 comprises the body 1, facing 2, lining 3 and inside patch or pocket backing 4. The facing is provided with the usual means of attachment comprising the facing bellows flap 5 extended along the inner edge of the facing 2, being engaged with said facingby the line of stitches 6 and havbacking 4 is provided with the bellows flap 10 having the folded back flange 11' forming the free edge 12, which ,is arranged to be engaged with the coat body 1 by the blind stitching usually employed, bei ng the same.

' as the blind stitches 9, shown in Fig.5.

their intersection as at 13 or at the region where the lower ed e of the inside pocket' patch or backing 4 intersects the rear edge of the facing 2, and where, as before stated,

it was-heretofore necessary to continue the felling or tacking I provide a triangular ing the gusset 15 is disposed in the an le' I blind stitching blind stitching by hand fellingand by tacking through several thicknesses of V material including the coat body. 1

In order to obviate the necessity of hand stress-carrying gusset 15 which in effect serves as a strut or truss which may be engaged by blind stitches 16, which form a continuation of the blind stitching of the pocket bellows flap and the blind stitching of the facing bellows flap 5, so that.obviously the blind stitching. may be performed by a continuous or uninterru ted o eration down the rear and lower e ges 0 the ocket patch 4,.then along the diagonal 0 go of the gusset and continued down the inner edge ofthe faci 2..

The coat structure shown in.F1gs. 3 an 4 is of the type having an outside patch ocket and therefore does not embody the mside cket patch or backing. In'this style 0 coat the attaching device comprisformed by the intersection ofthe rear e ge of the facing 22 and the lower edge of the 23 and is secured to the material forming the body 21 of the coat by blind stitches 17 which may be continuous with extending along the lower edge of said hning 23 and along the diag- -onal edge of said gusset, and down the ed e 28 oft e flap 25 which is attached to t e facing 22 by stitching 26 and has the folded back flange 27 forming the ed e 28. I

As shown in Fig. 7 the trian ar gussets 15 and 15 may be best formed from a substantially square piece of fabric or webbin 30 which may be folded upon the diagona indicated by the dot and. dash line 31 to provide the triangular structure shown in perspective in Fig. 8, in' which the wings -32 and 33 are slightly separated for convenience of illustration but which wings may be brought flat together to rovide the t 15 shown in Figs. 1 an 2, 'or the t 15 shown in Figs. 3 and 4.

though ordinarily the gusset formed as I angular reinforcement disposed in the shown -in Fig. 8 maybe found adequate,

it might be deemed advisable insome classes stresses incident to the relative differences The bellows flaps'5 and 10 terminate ati in the weight ofthe body material of the coat and the composite structure forming the inner fabric thereof are, b "its employment, more evenly distribut over a line of stitching which more nearly conforms to a linear path, there bein no sharp angular corners such as the rig t angular corner in the practice heretofore employed. Furthermore, the stitching between the acute angles of the triangular gusset extends obliquely andas the natural stresses tend in a downward direction they cut the diagonal stitching at an angle and at relatively different horizontal planes and consequently there .is not the same tendency to pucke'r the attached material of the coat body as if they cut the horizontal line of stitching.

It will also be obvious that by reason of the fact-of the shorter and relatively horizontal. and vertical sides of the gusset being respectively attached to the inner composite structure of the coat by stitching 18 and 19 Fig. 5 and the longer diagonal side being attached to the material forming the outer fabric or body of the coat, there is permitted a free come and go movement of the inner and outer fabrics without restriction to a point of contact as heretofore constructed. j

I do not desire to limit my invention to the precise details of-construct'ion and arrangement as herein set forth as it is obvious that various modifications may be made therein without departing from the essential features of my invention as defined in the appended claims.

vIfllaving thusdescribed my invention, I

cla1m 1. A garment of the class described, com-.

prising an outer fabric structure, an inner fabric structure arranged to be engaged with said outer fabric structure and aving an interior angular corner therein, and a triangular reinforcement di osed in the angle of said corner and secure to the inner and outer fabric structures respectively,

2. A garment of the class described,- comrising an outer fabric structure, aninner abric structure arranged to be e aged with said outer fabric structure and aving angular corner formed'thereln, and a trl- 16 of said corner and havingtwo of its 8i #8 secured to said inner fabric structure and its free side secured to said outer fabric structure. I

3. A garment of the class described, comprising an outer fabric structure, an inner fabric structure arranged to be engaged with said outer fabric structure and having an open angular corner formed therein, a triangular reinforcement disposed in the angle of said corner and having two of its sides secured to said inner fabric. structure, and means for engaging said inner fabric structure with said outer fabric structure comprising stitches extending along the edges of said angular opening; and the free diagonal edge of said reinforcement.

4. A garment of the class described, consisting of an outer fabric structure and an inner composite fabric structure comprising a lining and facing respectively having their lower and rear edges intersecting to form an angular corner, a reinforcement in the form of a triangular gusset disposed in the angle of said corner and having two of its side edges engaged with said lining and facing, and means for engaging said inner fabric structure to said outer fabric structure comprising stitches extending horizontally along the lower edge of said lining, diagonally along the free edge of said reinforcement zfmd vertically along the inner edge of said ac1ng..

5. A garment of the class described, consisting of an outer fabric structure, and an inner composite fabric structure comprising spective lower and rear edges of the backin and lining intersecting to form an angu ar corner, a triangular gusset disposed in the angle of said, corner and having two of its marginal edges engaged with the inner fabric structure and the other edge engaged with the outer fabric structure.

6. An inner fabric. structure for a garment of the class described, comprising a facing and lining having their edges intersecting to form an angular corner and a triangular gusset disposed in said corner and having two of its edges secured to said inner fabric structure and the third edge adapted to be secured 'to the outer fabric structure In witness whereof, I have hereunto set my hand this 24th day of August, 1925.

JACOB SIEGEL.

35 a lining, a pocket backing forming a continuation of said lining and a facing, the re-# 

